JULIEN SUNIER RISING STAR IN BEAUJOLAIS

We met Julien Sunier during the harvest of 2003. He was running Domaine Montrenot in Beaujolais, practically by himself. In 2006 he and his former girlfriend opened a restaurant with many products sourced from their hilltop farm. After a breakup he returned to winemaking in 2008. He has 2 vineyards under lease and we are trying to get his wines into New Jersey. 2008 was a very tough year for an innaugural vintage. Weather problems reduced the yields and made it a very labor intensive harvest. We will update during this harvest for 2009. I was drinking one of my last bottles of his Domaine Montrenot Morgon 2005 and thinking what an incredible wine for under $20. a bottle. Gamay is the red grape of Beaujolais, not Pinot Noir, but in strong vintages like 2005 and 2006 makes very age worthy wines. The northern villages of Beaujolais, Moulin A Vent, Morgon, Brouilly and Julienas are all capable of making wines to lay down, but also they can be appreciated while young. Julien and I had dinner at Auberge Paradis and with a Quail done with Asian Spices had a 2005 Morgon from one of his friends. An absolutely great choice. We hope to host Julien for a visit in 2010 and will feature his wines soon.

My favorite hotel in France

I was in the Burgundy Region during the harvest of 2004. After touring several properies in Julienas my host took me to a new restaurant in the tiny village of St Amour, the Auberge Paradis. It was a charming building being renovated and the upper floors were the future site of the hotel. The young girl running the crowded dining room turned out to be the proprietor and her husband the Chef. They had a popular French Restaurant in Turkey and had bought this location and were giving it a makeover. The food was exotic, and spicy but in a delicate way; not like the Creole Cooking of New Orleans where I grew up. The place was packed with local growers from neighboring Beaujolais Villages, so there was a great wine selection, to allow them to showcase their wines. They ordered a white wine from Bret Brothers, a Pouilly Vinzelles. Normally this would be an ok wine, well this was an astounding wine. I had never had a Macon Wine that was so stylish; when I went back into retail I made sure to order it for the store. www.mndfinewine.com
In 2006 during the barrel tasting of 2005's I stayed in the renovated Hotel Auberge Paradis. Cyril and Valerie are still the owners, the food is incredible, and probably has the best breakfast in France. Big beds, spotless clean rooms, reasonable prices; I want to just unwind there. On weekends Valerie has to get some help in the dining room, so brothers and sisters pitch in, Cyril turns out amazing food in his solo kitchen. Most everyone who stays here returns, www.aubergeparadis.fr