Charity Opera and Haut Brion

The final fund raising dinner to benefit the Opera Company of Philadelphia was enjoyed in early December. The dinner was purchased by a patron to celebrate a special Birthday. She invited 15 of her best friends, gals only. She also selected a tenor and baritone to perform. It was a serious evening, that everyone seemed to enjoy. Jay Tolson opened his house fot the event, Savonna Restaurant created and served the excellent menu. Steven Somkuti provided all the Grand Format bottles of Haut Brion from his cellar.
Tim Ribchester was the Pianist for the 2 young talents from the Curtis Institute. He is an Oxford educated musician, local conductor and musicologist. Diego Silva of Mexico City was the tenor, he chose a lot of pieces that are associated with Placido Domingo and made a great first impression. Baritone Elliot Madore made a return appearance and I think he and Diego did an interesting program that showed their range.. They both sang Donizetti from different Opera, the Bel Canto suited their voices admirably. Diego finished off the evening with a Zarazuelo piece from Sorozabal's La Taberna del Puerto which once again evoked memories of Placido Domingo. Elliot Madore and Diego Silva are real future stars.
The generosity of Savonna Restaurant and the talent of Chef Drew Mascianglo gave us a great pairing of food and wine.

Aperitif Champagne Pierre Moncuit Grand Cru en Magnum with Hors d'Oeuvres

Plantieres Haut Brion 2006 and Domaine de Chevalier 2005 with
Herb tossed Gulf Shrimp on Mache with Asian Pear, Shitake and Hazelnut Vinaigrette.

1985 Haut Brion en Dbl Magnum and 1992 Haut Brion en Dbl Magnum
Roasted Pheasant Breast, carmelized onion, apple risotto & chestnut foie gras emulsion.
(Haut Brion and pheasant, a spectacular combo)

2004 La Mission Haut Brion and 2003 La Tour Haut Brion
Braised Bison Short Ribs, Red wine strained salsify and Brussels Sprouts.
(Savonna's cuisine paired so well with the wine.)

1997 Ch Lafaurie Peraguey Grand Cru Sauternes with
Apple Bread Pudding, Caramel gelato.

Savonna's Melissa Monosoff the Philadelphia readers choice of Top Sommellier, her enthusiasm is contagious and she was her vivacious self. Great Food, Fantastic Wine, Brillant Young Opera Stars and one of the Great Houses on the Mainline who could ask for more. All for a very good cause, The Opera Company of Philadelphia.

Chateau les Carmes Haut Brion 2005

Our newest arrival, is the tiny neighbor of Haut Brion. Chateau les Carmes Haut Brion has a unique cepage, 50% Merlot, 49% Cabernet Franc & 10% . It has a large following for its small production. It is such a tiny property, about 2,000 cases, that it is hard to find. The owners daughter Penelope Furt has taken over the duties of wine-maker and has produced a wine that is equal to the 2000. Robert Parker rated 92 pts.
Troplong Mondot is our newest acquisition from St. Emilion. The easy drinking 2004 which Parker rated 92-94 is available for $39.99. One of the most consistent of the Grand Cru Classe` I have been enjoying this property since the mid-60's. Rich opulent Merlot perfume, deep colour.
The other St.Emilion are the 2000 La Grange Neuve de Figeac, and one of the smallest of the 1er Grand Cru Classe` Chateau Magdelaine 2005. The Manoncourt family have made Figeac one of the most consistent wines since 1945. It was a New Orleans favorite, When I moved to Houston in 1976 I was surprised that Pavie was all over the city but very little Figeac. Magdelaine is small, even by St Emilion standards. I first sold the wonderful 1964 vintage of Magdelaine, then when I moved to DC it was seldom seen. It has an unusual richness and aroma that is more like Pomerol. The 2005 is in limited supply, the 2006 is available at the same price. We have so many new arrivals coming in, please check our web site. Call me with special requests, ask about my upcoming (April 2010) Tour de Bordeaux. We will have Wine Tastings at Great Chateau, cooking classes with the Top Chefs of Bordeaux, real in depth visits and meetings with some of the top young wine makers. We will be staying at small hotels like Pavillion Margaux, Source Caudiale at Smith Haut Lafitte and a Chateau in St.Emilion. Call or email me for more information. Rick Geyer

ELEMENTS RESTAURANT PRINCETON

Its a great night when you find incredible food paired with special wines and the table is worthy of the Chef. 3 Wine Guys had a special meal at Elements Restaurant, in Princeton. The restaurant is somewhat new but the Chef/Owner, Scott Anderson has cooked at some of New Jersey's best, as has Joe Sparatta the Sous Chef and his wife Emilia the GM. We put ourselves in their care and they did an extraordinary tasting menu. I went in the back and blind decanted an older La Mission and a bottle of Chai Neuf that I bought in Beaune from Magnum Wine Cellar. Scott, Joe and Emilia shared a big glass I poured and they planned our menu on the spot. The other wines, Ravenneau Chablis Burgros and Guigal la Turque 1990 were tasted and intergrated into the dinner.
The best part was not having to take a train to New York, but getting this artisan meal in Princeton, a mere 20 minute drive for the diners.

One clever plate after another, starting with his apples and allium, 4 different tastes and combos. Intriguing and modern. It was delicious and left you ready for the next creative effort. The ris de Veau was done with local mushrooms in a rich demi-glace, a perfect size portion in a modern bowl. I was just amazed at how Scott & Joe, just created this dazzling array after tasting our wines and matching the food to our wines. They did Foie Gras 2 ways with the d'Yquem; nothing like great food and wine, course after course. It was wonderful to see a talented trio bursting with creativity at work. Elements is in a renovated industrial building, very modern and hip, lots of sculptural wood and steel, it makes for a relaxing experience. The cheese plate featured farm Brie and Blue from Lawrenceville, one town over. The great trend to source and feature the best of Local Artisans. Probably the best new place in Princeton for quite a while. www.elementsprinceton.com

FUTURES 2005

The buying of Futures, is pretty much limited to Bordeaux. It can be a very good deal, but remember the old adage, Ceveat Emptor. The last few years have seen one of the biggest sources in America, compress their buying, and what they offer. When I was in Importing we represented this House and had huge allocations of Haut Brion, Lafite, Petrus and most of the Names in Bordeaux. The last vintage they really had depth was the 2005, and that was much reduced from previous campaigns. The 2006 were offered at higher prices because the dollar was weaker, and like the housing market, the big Negociants thought prices would hold. Like many I advised customers to go heavy on 2005s but pass on the 2006. I stand by that advice, prices on 2006 are in flux, and there is a lot of wine in Bordeaux. If you can find good deals on 2001 or 2004, buy them for current drinking. Many merchants are offering the 2005 at prices that reflect their original cost. If it is a property you collect, and a fair price, buy in. I predict that Fall 2009 will have some truly collectible deals.

The other important thing to look for is Integrity; does your Wine Merchant have a track record? Experience and integrity are important, and have a relationship with your Merchant. From experience, I try and know customers preferences, and keep that in my mind when I buy. Many times we get offered special lots from suppliers, but it will be a limited amount of cases. A phone call or two and its gone. So its important to make your interests known. My other tip, is trust your palate, buy what you like. We just sold out a 2002 Grand Cru Bordeaux, from a property I have had very seldom. It turned out to be drinking very well and at $9.99 we could have sold so much more than the 3 cases we purchased. I bought it because it was a good value, it turned out to be a great value. Now, I must find new Super Values for customers. Its a changing process, every day.

JULIEN SUNIER RISING STAR IN BEAUJOLAIS

We met Julien Sunier during the harvest of 2003. He was running Domaine Montrenot in Beaujolais, practically by himself. In 2006 he and his former girlfriend opened a restaurant with many products sourced from their hilltop farm. After a breakup he returned to winemaking in 2008. He has 2 vineyards under lease and we are trying to get his wines into New Jersey. 2008 was a very tough year for an innaugural vintage. Weather problems reduced the yields and made it a very labor intensive harvest. We will update during this harvest for 2009. I was drinking one of my last bottles of his Domaine Montrenot Morgon 2005 and thinking what an incredible wine for under $20. a bottle. Gamay is the red grape of Beaujolais, not Pinot Noir, but in strong vintages like 2005 and 2006 makes very age worthy wines. The northern villages of Beaujolais, Moulin A Vent, Morgon, Brouilly and Julienas are all capable of making wines to lay down, but also they can be appreciated while young. Julien and I had dinner at Auberge Paradis and with a Quail done with Asian Spices had a 2005 Morgon from one of his friends. An absolutely great choice. We hope to host Julien for a visit in 2010 and will feature his wines soon.

My favorite hotel in France

I was in the Burgundy Region during the harvest of 2004. After touring several properies in Julienas my host took me to a new restaurant in the tiny village of St Amour, the Auberge Paradis. It was a charming building being renovated and the upper floors were the future site of the hotel. The young girl running the crowded dining room turned out to be the proprietor and her husband the Chef. They had a popular French Restaurant in Turkey and had bought this location and were giving it a makeover. The food was exotic, and spicy but in a delicate way; not like the Creole Cooking of New Orleans where I grew up. The place was packed with local growers from neighboring Beaujolais Villages, so there was a great wine selection, to allow them to showcase their wines. They ordered a white wine from Bret Brothers, a Pouilly Vinzelles. Normally this would be an ok wine, well this was an astounding wine. I had never had a Macon Wine that was so stylish; when I went back into retail I made sure to order it for the store. www.mndfinewine.com
In 2006 during the barrel tasting of 2005's I stayed in the renovated Hotel Auberge Paradis. Cyril and Valerie are still the owners, the food is incredible, and probably has the best breakfast in France. Big beds, spotless clean rooms, reasonable prices; I want to just unwind there. On weekends Valerie has to get some help in the dining room, so brothers and sisters pitch in, Cyril turns out amazing food in his solo kitchen. Most everyone who stays here returns, www.aubergeparadis.fr